Updated: January 26, 2026

When air fryer not heating up becomes your new reality, it’s a special kind of annoying: the fan is loud, the timer is moving, and yet nothing browns, nothing sizzles, and your food just sits there looking unchanged.

Before you assume the heater is dead, take a breath. In most homes, air fryer not heating up is caused by a simple blocker—drawer fit, settings, airflow, power delivery, or a safety cutout doing its job. Sometimes a part really has failed. However, these quick checks help you find out fast, without opening the unit or turning dinner into a stressful project.

Start with the mini-check below. It’s the fastest way to tell whether you have a true “no heat” problem or a “heat can’t do its job” problem.

Air fryer not heating up: the 90-second mini-check

Do this once, in order. Don’t add liners or accessories during this test.

1) Empty heat test (3 minutes)
Set 200°C / 400°F for 3 minutes with an empty basket. Then carefully open the drawer and feel for a strong blast of heat from the basket area (do not touch the heating element).

2) Display check (10 seconds)
Make sure you actually pressed Start and the timer is counting down. Some models will run the fan even when heat hasn’t engaged.

3) Drawer reseat (15 seconds)
Pull the drawer out and slide it back in firmly until it’s fully flush. Even a tiny gap can keep the heating circuit from engaging on many drawer-style units.

4) Direct wall outlet test (1 minute)
If you were using a power strip, adapter, or extension cord, remove it. Plug directly into a wall outlet and run 1 minute at 200°C / 400°F.

What your result means:

• It heats empty: the heater is likely okay. Your problem is usually airflow, load size, liners/foil, cookware, placement, or expectations.

• It doesn’t heat empty: you’re likely dealing with heat not engaging (drawer switch, power delivery issue, protection mode, or a failing component).

Keep your result in mind. Next, the FAQ clears up the common confusion that makes this problem feel “mysterious.”

Air Fryer Keeps Tripping the Breaker: (Safe Fixes)

FAQ: Air fryer not heating up

How quickly should an air fryer feel hot?
Most air fryers build noticeable heat quickly during an empty test. If it still feels barely warm after 3 minutes at a high temperature, that’s a meaningful sign.

The fan runs—does that mean it’s heating?
Not always. The fan can run even if the heating system isn’t allowed to engage due to drawer fit, safety cutout behavior, or a control issue.

Why does it heat sometimes, then stop heating mid-cook?
That often points to overheating protection or restricted airflow. In other words, it may cut heat to protect itself, then work again after cooling.

Can liners, foil, or a pan make it feel like it’s not heating?
Yes. Air fryers cook by moving hot air fast. If you block airflow with a liner, foil, or a pan that covers most of the base, the unit can be hot while the food stays pale and soft.

Can a weak outlet or power strip cause weak heating?
Yes. Air fryers are high-watt appliances. Cheap or overloaded strips and extension cords can cause voltage drop or overheating at connection points, which can lead to weak heat or unstable behavior.

If it won’t heat empty, is it definitely broken?
Not definitely, but it’s more serious. Rule out drawer seating, settings, and power delivery first. If it still won’t heat empty across known-good outlets, a heater/control fault becomes more likely.

Should I keep “testing” it over and over to see if it comes back?
No. One controlled test is enough. If you notice electrical warning signs (hot plug/outlet, burning smell, sparking), stop immediately and move to “When to stop.”

Air Fryer Fan Not Spinning (or Weak Airflow): Symptoms, Causes

Is it truly not heating, or just not cooking well?

A lot of “air fryer not heating up” complaints are actually “it’s hot, but results are weak.”

Here are the two common versions:

Version A: True no-heat

• The empty 3-minute test feels lukewarm.

• Opening the drawer doesn’t release a strong wave of hot air.

• Food stays pale and soft even after extra time.

Version B: Heat is there, but cooking is disappointing

• The empty test feels hot.

• Food cooks slowly, unevenly, or stays soggy.

• Crisp foods never crisp, especially with a full basket.

If you’re in Version B, focus on airflow and load fixes (below). If you’re in Version A, follow the engagement and power checks in order.

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Why air fryer not heating up happens

Most cases fit one of these “stories.” You don’t need to guess which one—each safe fix below is designed to rule them out quickly.

Story 1: Heat never engaged (drawer switch or start/settings)

Many drawer-style air fryers use a small safety switch that must be fully pressed by the drawer being completely seated. If the drawer is even slightly open, the fan may run and the timer may count down, but the heater won’t engage.

Story 2: Airflow is blocked (so heat can’t reach food)

Even with a working heater, your food may stay pale if hot air can’t circulate. Liners, foil, deep pans, and overcrowding are common culprits.

Story 3: Overheat protection reduced or cut heat

If the unit overheated earlier (blocked vents, grease buildup, back-to-back batches), it may temporarily cut or limit heating. This can feel like “not heating” even though the unit is protecting itself.

Story 4: Power delivery is weak (strip/extension/outlet load)

Air fryers often draw 1500W+ (varies by model). If power delivery is unstable—especially through cheap extensions or overloaded strips—the unit may behave oddly or heat weakly.

Story 5: A component is failing (heater, sensor, control board)

If it won’t heat empty across known-good outlets after the safe checks, a component fault becomes more likely. These are not user-serviceable for most people, and pushing past that point usually wastes time.

Air Fryer Plug Gets Hot: Is It Normal? Safe Checks!

Air fryer not heating up: safe fixes in the best order

Fix 1: Confirm the cook cycle is actually running

This is simple, but it prevents a lot of wasted troubleshooting.

• Use manual mode (not a preset) for this test.

• Set a high temperature and a short time.

• Press Start and confirm the timer counts down.

If the unit is “on” but the timer isn’t moving, it’s not truly running a cook cycle.

Fix 2: Reseat the drawer and the crisper plate (most common)

If your air fryer not heating up happens with fan noise and a normal-looking display, drawer fit is a top suspect.

Do this:

• Pull the drawer out.

• Remove the crisper plate/insert and reseat it flat.

• Wipe crumbs or greasy grit from the rails and edges.

• Slide the drawer in firmly until it sits fully flush.

Why this works: many models use a small limit switch that only allows the heater to turn on when the drawer presses it completely. A tiny gap can prevent that switch from engaging.

Then run a 1-minute empty test at a high temperature.

Fix 3: Verify temperature and units

Make sure you’re not accidentally running low heat.

• For crisping, many foods need 180–200°C / 360–400°F.

• If you’re at 120–150°C, it may feel like “air fryer not heating up,” especially if you expect instant browning.

Also check units. A Celsius/Fahrenheit mismatch can make the air fryer feel wildly underpowered.

Fix 4: Remove liners, foil, racks, and deep pans for one test

If the empty test is hot but food stays pale, return to a “factory setup” test:

• Basket + insert only

• No parchment, foil, silicone liner

• No pan that covers most of the base

Then cook a small single-layer test batch. If results improve, your issue was airflow, not the heater.

Air Fryer Turns On by Itself: What It Means, Safe Fixes, and When to Unplug for Good

Fix 5: Give it real breathing room

Vent clearance is not a small detail.

• Pull it away from the wall.

• Don’t trap it under a low cabinet “cave.”

• Make sure vents aren’t blocked by dust or grease film.

Then repeat the empty test. If it heats better now, your problem was heat buildup and poor ventilation.

Fix 6: Clean the hidden grease zone under the insert

A thin grease film plus crumbs can change airflow and trigger protection over time.

After unplugging and cooling:

• Remove basket and insert.

• Clean under the insert and the corners.

• Wipe greasy residue in the drawer area.

Then test empty again. This is a common “it used to heat fine” fix.

Fix 7: Do the cleanest power test (direct-to-wall)

If your air fryer not heating up is happening on a strip, extension, or adapter, remove that variable.

• Plug directly into a grounded wall outlet.

• Avoid running other high-watt appliances at the same time (kettle, toaster, microwave).

Why this works: air fryers draw high wattage. Poor or overloaded connections can cause voltage drop and heat at the plug/strip, which can reduce performance or cause unstable behavior.

If direct-to-wall suddenly fixes the problem, keep using the safer setup.

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Fix 8: The 10-minute unplug reset (safe version)

If the unit heated earlier and then stopped heating, a longer unplug can help reset protective behavior.

• Unplug for 10 minutes

• Plug into a known-good wall outlet

• Run a 1–3 minute empty high-temp test

Why this can help: some models have protective thermal cutoffs or control logic that won’t behave normally until the unit cools and resets.

If it only works after cooling, treat overheating/airflow as your primary cause.

Fix 9: When it’s likely a real component failure

If your air fryer not heating up still won’t heat empty after:

• Drawer reseat and correct settings

• Direct-to-wall testing

• Vent clearance and cleaning

• Cooling time + safe reset

…then it’s reasonable to suspect a failing heating element, thermostat/thermal sensor, or control board.

Be direct with yourself here: these are not user-serviceable parts for most people. The safest next step is manufacturer support (especially under warranty) or a qualified technician if your model is designed to be serviced.

Common mistakes that make “air fryer not heating up” worse

Mistake 1: Assuming fan noise equals heat
Fan-only behavior feels “active,” so you keep waiting. Instead, do one controlled empty test and get a clear answer.

Mistake 2: Troubleshooting with liners still in place
Liners and foil change airflow. Always troubleshoot without them first, then add them back only after the unit proves it heats empty.

Mistake 3: Overfilling because “I’ll shake it later”
A packed basket traps steam and blocks air. Shaking helps, but it doesn’t fix severe airflow blockage.

Mistake 4: Using a phone charger to “test the outlet”
Chargers draw tiny power. A weak outlet or strip can still charge a phone while your air fryer struggles under real load.

Air Fryer Basket Won’t Slide In Properly: Stuck Rails, Misalignment, or a Warped Basket (Quick Fixes)

Mini examples (so you can spot your situation fast)

Example 1: Hot empty test, weak food results
The air fryer is clearly hot empty, but fries stay pale in a full basket. Most likely: overcrowding + steam + blocked airflow. A half-basket test usually proves it.

Example 2: Fan runs, timer moves, but no heat
You reseat the drawer and the heat returns immediately. Most likely: the drawer wasn’t pressing the safety switch because it wasn’t fully flush.

Example 3: Works on a wall outlet, fails on a strip
Direct-to-wall fixes it. Most likely: strip/extension connection resistance, voltage drop, or shared load.

Common pattern (E-E-A-T): When air fryer not heating up shows up “suddenly,” the fix is often outside the heater—drawer fit, airflow, or power delivery—so ruling out simple external causes first usually prevents unnecessary replacement.

What to do now

If air fryer not heating up is happening right now, follow this plan:

1. Do the empty 3-minute high-temp test (no accessories).

2. If it heats empty: remove airflow blockers (liners/pans), reduce load, and improve vent clearance.

3. If it doesn’t heat empty: reseat the drawer + insert, verify temperature/units, and test direct-to-wall.

4. Clean under the insert and let it cool fully, then retest once.

5. If it still won’t heat empty: stop troubleshooting and contact the manufacturer.

This keeps you in the safe lane and gets you to a clear answer quickly.

When to stop using it or replace it

Stop and treat it as a safety issue if you notice any of these absolute stop signs:

• Burning smell (especially near the plug, cord, or base)

• Visible sparks, crackling, or buzzing

• Smoke from the base (not from food)

• Hot power cord, hot plug, or a hot wall outlet

• Melted plastic, discoloration, or scorch marks on plug/outlet

• Repeated breaker/RCD trips

If your air fryer not heating up won’t heat empty across multiple known-good wall outlets after the safe checks, it’s reasonable to contact support for warranty service or replace the unit. At that point, “one more home test” usually doesn’t add useful information.

Why Does My Air Fryer Turn Off Mid-Cook? (Simple Fixes)

Quick recap

If air fryer not heating up is your problem, the empty 3-minute high-temp test is the fastest truth test. If it heats empty, your issue is usually airflow, load, liners, cookware, or placement. If it won’t heat empty, reseat the drawer, confirm settings, test direct-to-wall, clean buildup, and retest once. If it still won’t heat, treat it as a support/warranty issue.

Safety note

This article is general information, not professional repair advice. Follow your air fryer’s manual. Unplug the appliance before cleaning or moving it. If you notice electrical warning signs (hot plug/outlet, burning smell, sparking, smoke, repeated tripping), stop using the appliance and contact the manufacturer or a qualified professional.

 

Part of our Air Fryer Troubleshooting Hub

Want the full list of fixes? Go here: Air Fryer Troubleshooting: The Complete Fix-It Guide

Sources (optional)

• https://www.usa.philips.com/c-t/XC000003728/my-philips-airfryer-does-not-work-or-switch-on (Philips Support)

• https://www.usfa.fema.gov/prevention/home-fires/prevent-fires/appliance-and-electrical/ (US Fire Administration)

• https://www.hse.gov.uk/electricity/electricequip.htm (UK HSE – Electrical equipment safety)